Fabric glossary: weaves and terms
From bouclé to selvedge: the most important terms from our product details and fabric descriptions briefly explained.
We explain sewing service terms such as heading, pelmet, sheer and inbetween in Explanation of terms and notes on the sewing service.
Dimensions and pattern
| Term | Explanation |
|---|---|
| Format | width and sales unit of the fabric, for example 137.2 cm x 1.00 m |
| Running metre | one metre of length across the full fabric width; this is how we sell fabric by the metre |
| Selvedge | firm woven edge on both sides, cut off before making up |
| Usable width | width without the selvedge, see Usable Fabric Width |
| Repeat | length after which a pattern repeats (vertical) |
| Repeat (horizontal) | width after which a pattern repeats across the fabric |
| Straight match | the pattern continues at the same height on adjacent widths |
| Drop match | the pattern on the adjacent width is shifted down by part of the repeat |
| Batch | production lot; colours can vary slightly between batches |
Weaves and surfaces
| Term | Explanation |
|---|---|
| Plain weave | simplest weave, warp and weft cross alternately; hard-wearing and even |
| Twill | weave with a diagonal rib, for example in denim; hard-wearing with a soft drape |
| Satin | smooth, shiny surface created by long floats |
| Jacquard | pattern is woven in directly, not printed; has a three-dimensional effect |
| Damask | jacquard with a shiny-matt effect, often classic ornaments |
| Velvet / velour | fabric with a short, dense pile; see Using velvet correctly |
| Chenille | yarn with fluffy fibres, soft handle, often for upholstery |
| Bouclé | yarn with small loops, nubbly surface |
| Moiré | fabric with a watery shimmer |
| Embroidery | pattern is stitched onto the base fabric with yarn |
| Ikat | yarns are dyed in sections before weaving; blurred outlines are typical |
Patterns and style terms
| Term | Explanation |
|---|---|
| Toile de Jouy | single-colour scenes on a light ground, a French classic |
| Chintz | glazed, usually floral cotton |
| Paisley | teardrop-shaped ornament of Persian origin |
| Houndstooth | small check with jagged edges |
| Tartan | Scottish check with intersecting stripes |
Technical values
| Term | Explanation |
|---|---|
| Martindale | number of rubs until visible wear; see Durability of fabrics – classification |
| Lightfastness | resistance of the colour to light, scale 1 to 8; see Light and sun |
| Solution-dyed | colour is added to the fibre itself; very lightfast, typical of outdoor fabrics |